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Resort near phlo california3/9/2023 Said madly Muppet-ish stompers-imagine wearing them on a dance floor-looked like contenders as the next-in-line-hit furry footwear in a lineage last filled by early Michele Gucci and before that late Philo Céline.īut back into that labyrinth, the most appropriate possible motif for a collection which demonstrated so handsomely that one must first be lost in order to then be found. These topped striking shoes in fur both faux and shorn from long-haired goats in the goat-milk industry, so cruelty free. Here the labyrinth looked especially great when rendered in angularly colorful 3-D print on the silk pieces that were worn by Rousteing during our call. Running alongside all these marbled and blended and pattern-flecked codes was a near-constant referral to the labyrinth pattern invented by Pierre Balmain himself and recently resuscitated by Rousteing from the archive. Added to that was the crazy, sexy, cool mega-silhouette of pants touched by his studio binges on TLC and Backstreet Boys, and then to that a stern, almost brutalist womenswear piece that saw a tower-block neckline edged in satin on a garment that recalled a sculptural smoking jacket but which was neither jacket, shirt, nor blouse: “We have to find a new category for that one!” said the designer. So this collection also reflected the Riviera Rousteing, lover of life from Ibiza to Mykonos to SoCal, with fine phases of luxury boho (remembering that calling those bags “hobo” is now a no-go). More broadly, you could see the unstructured design and pattern on the tapestry fabric in look 28 of womenswear or look 17 of menswear as a geographically more specific creative coordinate.īut of course place does not entirely define individual identity, just as it is not defined entirely by origin: Where you travel, what you love, and who you relate to are pretty important ingredients too. This inspired in Rousteing some of the jewelry-particularly the great chain-chinned baseball cap look-as well as an affinity to the story of the Egyptian-Italian and iconic-in-France singer Dalida. Instead he has been researching the Horn of Africa from afar and was particularly moved by a visit to the exhibition Divas, from Oum Kalthoum to Dalida at the Arab World Institute in the town that is his home-Paris. Since that discovery he has been unable to visit either Somalia or Ethiopia (pandemic issues), but is itching to go. This exuberant resort collection, both for women and men, is Rousteing’s rendering in the métier he loves of the existential expansion that the discovery of his parents’ identity has unlocked in him. Your genetics and parentage define neither your soul nor your being, but as I witnessed in my own father (who was given away through a classified newspaper advertisement when he was seven days old), not knowing who your mother and father are creates a swirling void at what is otherwise the core of your identity-and you constantly wonder. Spoiler alert that doesn’t spoil the film: His mother is Somalian and his father Ethiopian. Coming to Netflix on June 26 is the documentary Wonder Boy: It follows Rousteing’s fabulous and fixatedly-driven lifestyle at Balmain, as well as his search to discover his parentage after being adopted as a baby. When it comes to the universe of Olivier Rousteing, the same applies. Cosmology says that the universe constantly expands.
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